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Has anyone used Monoprice's 1kg "Premium" PLA? The price seems ridiculously good at 16.99$ per 1kg. Free shipping over 50$. I'm looking to get a nice "library" of colors but this price just seems to good to be true. ...

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I am having trouble getting my nozzle back on. Heating to 230c which should be more than enough, but there is still a large gap and I am afraid I will break something. Any ideas for getting the nozzle back on? ...

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If I reduce my print speed, should I also reduce my flow rate? ...

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Is this the normal startup process? Most things seem to print fine but some comments on z level had me wondering if the nozzle should be touching plate like that at start ...

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A Tale of Two Prints. The one on the left was stock fan. The one on the right is with a new surround blower. While neither is perfect (that overhang) the stock fan has a LOT more problems including major top blistering and the bottom of the overhang that is an absolute wreck. All settings for each print are the same. ...

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Loving the Bondtech+Micro Swiss combo.

Second set of them for my other D6 is on the way.

Must have for D6 users.
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I just bought two noctua fans for my printer, does it get wired in series or in parallel? ...

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Good day
my gear that extrudes the material is making strange, the print will start then all of a sudden the gear will move back and forth for a while then it will start to extrude the material again.

I did some research and found out that my ribbon cable connector is the problem, that doesn't make a good connection.

How can I fix the problem?

Help would be much appreciated!
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Hi! I'm new to the group, and new-ish to 3d Printing. I'm on the hunt for the "magic layer height" for the Wanhao Duplicator 6. The formula for "magic layer height" I'm referring to is listed below, but my problem is I can't find info on the needed specs to calculate the number. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance, and I'm sorry for the long post!

"Every 3D printer has a ‘Magic’ layer height. This is related to the stepper motor resolution and the pitch of the z-axis lead screw thread. In summary, your layer height should be a multiple of your Z-axis lift per full step. This is usually a random looking number such as 0.04375, not the 0.05mm that you’re used to using.

If you don’t use the ‘Magic’ layer height then the motor will try to stop in between steps. As this is not possible it will either make the layer too thin or too thick.

If you don’t know your lead screw thread pitch off the top of your head (what kind of a 3D printing enthusiast are you!?) Then you can look it up in your 3D printer spec sheet that is hopefully in the back of your manual or fortunately, this information is often only a Google away.

Here’s how to calculate your Magic Layer Height using my Monoprice Select Mini V2 as an example:

Stepper Motor Step Angle: 7.5°

Steps per full rotation: 360°/7.5° = 48 steps

Z-Axis Lead Screw Spec: M4 x 0.7mm

Height Change per Motor Step: 0.7mm / 48 steps = 0.0145833333333mm

To make this a nice number let’s multiply it by 3: 0.0145833333333mm x 3 = 0.04375mm

So our ‘Magic Layer Height’ is 0.04375mm"
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Anyone know the length of the ribbon cable? I'm getting communication errors when printing in the far corner so I think its time to make a replacement.

I bought connectors already but never got around to figuring out the cable length and its currently in the middle of a long print (avoiding 1/4 of the table)
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What are the advantages of using raspberry pi and octoprint? ...

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I picked up a Monoprice Ultimate 3D on Black Friday and have been struggling to get good prints out of it. Here's a calibration cube I printed from Cura 3.1.0. PLA, 0.15mm, 195/60. Print speed 60 mm/s. Printed with a raft. The Y & the Z look okay, but the X is fuzzy, all the way to the top of the X. The left corners both lifted and the first dozen layers on the left side are messy. Fan speed is 100%, Raft Fan Speed is 0%. What do I need to adjust to get this looking better? ...

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Grazie ...

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I printed this space ship out the other day and on the top surface of just one side had these really bad bumps in it. What would cause this? I THINK I have the machine pretty well dialed in. My cube looks almost perfect and has a mirror glassy finish on the bottom. The bottom of the overhang was REALLY brutally rough but I was told that just happens when you have that much overhang. This is PLA, stock fan (upgrading soon), PEI glass bed. Nozzle 200, bed 62. ...

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Looking for solid PETG settings.

I think I have my ABS setting dialed in near perfect, should I use similar settings?
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Any idea what the reason might be between the quality of the fingers on these two? White is stuff provided with printer, black is hatchbox pla. Both printed with exact same paramters. Partial clog in nozzle or maybe filament feed issue? ...

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Hi Guys as I see many people like to share new products ...upgrades and links to interesting software not directly related ...to Wanhao Duplicator 6 please feel free to join our new group and share your experience.

Resin Printers Kingdom
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N00b question of the day. Currently running the stock v3.01 of the firmware. If everything is going great should I upgrade to the MARLIN 1.1.5 that came out a few months ago? ...

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Yet another material today. T-Glase. it prints wonderfully at 240C with 100C bed on top of lightly 320 gritt sanded kapton tape. It may be fine without that but I am using that these days so left it on and its fine. I post a pic of a vase and my 1st cut test block I use for checking out quality. The T-Glase prints arches REALLY WELL, maybe better than any other material I have used and that is many. And on the way is some XTC-3D epoxy coating which is able to make the t-glase far more transparent and smooth so that will be way fun. ...

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